LAS VEGAS HISTORY - RAT PACK ERA BARS, RESTAURANTS & HOTELS

LAS VEGAS - RAT PACK AND OTHER QUIRKY, HIP, HISTORIC OR FUNKY BARS, RESTAURANTS, HOTELS & BUILDINGS

For an expanded and more updated version of this page see my other website Rat Pack Era Vegas -www.unrealvegas.com

Alas, time machines, as I define them, can be counted on one hand in Las Vegas (although small town Nevada in general has an incredible collection of old Western Saloons). Las Vegas, even more so than Los Angeles, seems hell-bent on erasing its own history. An historic tour of Vegas (at least the history of casinos and restaurants) is generally one of those look at that parking lot or mirrored box building - it used to be there type of tours. Sure, the names of many historic casinos remain, but they are modern shells of what once was. There are a few exceptions.

The Huntridge Movie Palace - interesting exterior but essentially nothing left of the original interior. No movie palace interiors remain intact in Las Vegas.

The exterior of the El Cortez Casino, downtown in a challenging area, is still in almost perfect original shape, although the interior is remodeled. The Golden Gate at the Fremont Experience still has some original feel about it, especially the coffee shop. The most pristine remnant of 1950s Las Vegas (at least in a decent area) is the South Part of the Stardust, in the pool area (which was once the Royal Nevada Casino - I take that back - it's been imploded!). The entrance to Caesar's Palace (whoops - just remodeled) and the table gaming area when you first walk in Caesar's are also fairly original, although everything else has recently been completely remodeled. While I assume the pool at the Stardust is safe from the wrecking ball (wrong - it's now gone), there are rumors the Algiers may not always be with us (update - it just closed and was torn down - it's Vegas Baby!) There are many fascinating Motels in downtown and along Boulder Highway (but see my warnings page)I would like to start a preservation effort for their neon signs, if nothing else. While many neon signs have been saved as museum pieces, I think it would be nice to preserve them and re-light them in their original location. It would surely spruce up downtown and Boulder Highway. See the Vegas Motels page under the Miscellaneous Topics tab. Have you noticed I'm the kind of parenthetical remarks!

The El Cortez Casino, downtown Las Vegas (best preserved exterior)

The chart below, then, lists a few time machines and the rest are just quirky, fun or historic places. Las Vegas of course, despite the destruction of its pop history, is still a great place to visit, but only if you do not gamble. Gambling converts a very inexpensive and entertaining visit into an expensive and unpleasant experience for many people. News flash! - they didn't build the many Billion dollar casinos by giving out free money to scores of people. Take my advice, enjoy the shows, the incredible pop architecture, the luscious food, thrilling shopping, breathtaking nature, and don't gamble or imbibe.

The somewhat recently destroyed Algiers Motel - a classic 50's Vegas spot - now a dirt lot.

See the bottom of the page for a few gratuitous tourist tips having nothing to do with the theme of this website.

Soon, this may be the only remnant of the Strip in the '50s. This is the pool area of the Stardust on the South side, once the "Royal Nevada" [Update - it's gone!!! The Stardust is now dust].

LAS VEGAS:

NAME	COMMENTS
The Hard Rock Hotel and AJ’s Steakhouse (inside), 4455 Paradise Rd., 693-5500 This picture doesn't do AJ's justice because it was taken with all the lights on. It's normally darker and trust me it's true Rat Pack. Chandelier made of out Saxophones inside the Hard Rock Hotel (what's next - a sofa in the likeness of Archie Shepp!):	AJ's Steakhouse inside the Hard Rock Hotel represents one of a handful of places that can qualify as a "time machine" in Las Vegas. Even though it’s new, they did a beautiful job of recreating a swanky 1950’s Las Vegas atmosphere. If you can't afford the food prices here, at least buy a Perrier at the bar. A relaxing piano only adds to the ambiance. Really good food in my opinion, although on my budget - it's a once a year thing. I saw Steve Lawrence and Eydie Gorme here - talk about Vegas Nirvana. The quality and value of everything at the Hard Rock Casino is so good, you get the impression it is sort of an idealistic (and hedonistic) Corporation (though in the last year it seems they have gotten a little less generous in their offers and specials - probably because the place is so popular they don't need them to bring people in anymore). The interior design in the Hard Rock Casino is impeccable. It's hard not to have a good time here. Kudos!!!
THE ATTIC, 1018 S. Main St. Las Vegas, Nevada 89101 (702) 388-4088	This place specializes in vintage clothes and pop culture "antiques". It's like a museum of the mid-century in itself, but make sure to purchase something! We need to support the few cool places we have in town.
Art Vargas - singer, recording artist, swankster - various locations. If you can catch him in Vegas, your in for a real treat! This is the only true lounge music in Vegas! More Information	Vargas is a recording artist - if you are into jazz or true lounge music, this guy is sensational. He's so unique I'm sure he is destined to really take off. One problem in Las Vegas however (perhaps everywhere) is that one's popularity is often inversely proportional to how cutting edge creative you are. Hard to describe his style - he's sort of a cross between Sinatra/Elvis/Jazz/Lounge/Latin/R&B and at times almost reaching the outer limits of Frank Zappa, while at the same time having the modernist pop elegance of the Rat Pack and Liberace. Well that's not accurate but I tried. His back up band are excellent jazz musicians who would be worth seeing even on their own. Check out his website to the left for his schedule. Ironically, his show is much better than the high ticket price shows in the mega-hotels, yet you can usually see Vargas for free in a club.
Atomic Liquor/Cocktails - 917 Fremont Street, Las Vegas, NV, 89101 702-384-7371 T T	This bar dates back to the days when nuclear mushroom clouds from the nearby testing site were actually a tourist attraction in Las Vegas. This must be one of the oldest bars in Vegas and in an area not for the weak at heart. You have to be "buzzed" in the front door after the bartender checks you out. Friendly place still with an old time feel, but only for the more adventurous type of explorer. See my warnings page.
Battista’s Hole in the Wall, 4041 Audrie St. near back of Flamingo Casino – a couple blocks off the strip off of Flamingo 732-1424 (since 1970)	Founded by Battista Locatelli. Fun, quirky atmosphere (a ton of knick knacks including thousands of small liquor bottles), and fun accordion player whose a real Vegas institution in himself. The menu is a sign on the wall. If you're on the strip it's definitely worth a visit given the generic nature of other restaurants on the strip. ($15-25 each - complete meals-salad, dessert, all you can drink house wine for those of you not driving, soup, etc.). Their mascot is a moose head named Mooosolini. Reservations at certain times of year are a must.
Bob Taylor's Original Ranch House, 6250 Rio Vista Street Las Vegas, NV 89130, 702-645-1399 T T T since 1955	I finally got the time to drive to this part of town and eat here. Way up in the Northwest of town, this place was probably once out in the middle of no where, but Las Vegas is rapidly growing right up to it. This is one of the oldest restaurants in Las Vegas. The food is rather tasty and reasonably priced for what you receive. Wonderful steaks. The interior has sort of an old feel (somewhat remodeled). Fairly dark and very relaxing. It is surrounded by its own five acres of land, which should keep the encroaching houses away. This places often wins "Best Steakhouse" in the local paper reader's poll. If you want to re-live the Western themed days of early Vegas, this is the place to do it. If your looking for more of a Rat Pack ambiance, go to the Golden Steer.
Bootlegger Bistro, 7700 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 736-4939 (open 24 hours).	Last remnants of the original 1950s Vegas entertainers – shows most nights but the "Off the Cuff" show is an absolute must see - this is Vegas as it was in the 1950's - definitely not politically correct - so if your easily offended - you're warned. The show, starring Sonny King, the last of the Vegas "Rat Pack" (a great singer and comedian - a close associate of Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Jimmy Durante) and Lorraine Hunt, the Lieutenant Governor of Nevada and owner of the Bootlegger (who is also a wonderful singer with a great history in Vegas). Also includes other singers and comedians who were once big names on the strip (and a few current big names may stop in and participate). Reserve days earlier as this is very popular. Incredibly - the festivities tend to go on for three hours or more. While the restaurant moved several years ago and I miss the interior of the old one, this is true living history. I believe the great circular booths where brought in from the old location. Food's great too! Worth the trip to this quiet end of the strip in the South. UPDATE: Sadly, one of Las Vegas's greatest entertainers, Sonny King, who performed here regularly, died in February 2006 at age 83. Jimmy Durante's long time sidekick and virtual rat pack member, Sonny made me laugh more than any other entertainer I've seen in Las Vegas - and boy - the man could sing! This is an incalculable loss for Las Vegas, although I'm sure he lived as full a life as anyone ever has!
The Dam Restaurant (inside Hooter's Casino), 115 E. Tropicana Ave., Las Vegas, NV 89109 866-584-6687	Some people seem to think Hooter's is a really adult type of place. The reality is that it's pretty close to a "G" rating (especially by Las Vegas standards - hey- they have a children's menu!). This recreation of a 50's California Googie Coffee Shop is pretty amazing in the new Hooter's Casino/Hotel. They really set out to make an authentic place and succeeded! Just about perfect (other than the ubiquitous TV screens that I guess are an essential to survival in our Attention Deficit Culture). Hidden in the back is a very nice Vegas style buffet at a very reasonable price. I wish more corporations would make such nice recreations! This is a real 50's looking restaurant - not one of those "Happy Day's" places that are found everywhere - yuk!.
Decatur Drug, 546 S. Decatur next to Decatur Package Liquor& Cocktails – 870-2525 (since 1962 or 1965 depending on source) T T T T	Sister to Huntridge Drugs - but in a little better shape and better part of town – straight out of the 60s – cheap lunch counter food. There were rumors that Huntridge Drugs and Decatur Drugs (at least the lunch counters) were in danger of disappearing but it seems those problems have been solved. At my last visit recently, the place looks like it's going strong (with some unfortunate remodeling of it's vinyl seats). This will be a giant loss for Las Vegas if they ever do close. These are exactly like the places I remember going to in the 1960s before McDonald's took over the fast, cheap food business. These are the kind of places that make milkshakes from scratch in those great aluminum containers. Somehow, the simple hamburgers here are more satisfying than any $10 version in trendy restaurants. Decatur Package liquor, next door, is a amiable dive bar as well.
El Sombrero Cafe, 807 S. Main St. 382-9234 (since 1950). T T T	Nice old neon sign out front. I don't know why, but I don't believe I've ever seen a Mexican restaurant, no matter how old, that gives me the "time machine" feel. Maybe that's because the decorations are so cheaply replaced. But this is an historic restaurant and worth a visit. I believe with the 1950 establishment date, it makes it the oldest restaurant in town (but of course there are all sorts of criteria used like, oldest in same location, oldest with same owner, etc). This is a "power" lunch place where you may occasionally see the mayor. Well, it's hard to spend a week in Las Vegas and not see the beloved Mayor somewhere (I've never met anyone who didn't like him, despite his controversial past - a very likeable guy).
Fong's Garden Chinese Restaurant, 2021 E. Charleston Blvd., Las Vegas 702-382-1644 (since 1955) T T	I have not been here in a few years. It still had somewhat of an old feel when I last went. One of the oldest restaurants in Las Vegas. Founded by Wing Fong, who died in May of 2005. Wing Fong first came to Las Vegas in 1939 and worked with relatives who owned the former Silver Cafe. He was such an astute business man, he eventually helped found the Nevada State Bank. He was known as a great philanthropist and champion of minority rights.
Golden Steer Steak House, 308 W. Sahara just West of the Strip, 384-4470 (since 1958) T T T T T (except the bar)	This qualifies as the last truly pristine, swanky old Vegas restaurant. While the bar is a bit remodeled in feel, the restaurant is perfect (although there have been some changes since it opened way back when). Semicircular booths with plaques mentioning whose favorite tables they once were - including all of the Rat Pack. It's dark and relaxing. Definitely not cheap but worth it (check the menu first if you're on a tight budget). I hope they don't ever change this place, because it's the last one for Vegas. Don't let the mundane exterior fool you, this place is 1000% authentic Vegas. If you only have time to eat in one place in Las Vegas - eat here! Did I mention the food was mouthwatering as well. This place has been a repeated winner of "Best Steakhouse" polls in Las Vegas. Joe Kludjian owned the restaurant from 1960 to 2001. He died in April of 2006 at age 81. Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr. were regulars, with many visits by Joe DiMaggio, Betty Grable and Harry James as well. Being one of the top places in town made it a hangout for big name wiseguy figures as well. By the way, when in Las Vegas, don't say "Nevahdah" (even though that's the proper Spanish pronunciation). Nevada natives (if you can find one) seem offended unless you pronounce it Nevada with the first "a" as in "fat". And long time Las Vegas residents are wild about people calling the place "Vegas" either!
Hilltop House Supper Club, 3500 N. Rancho Rd. 645-9904 5-9:30 PM Wed. through Sat. and 5-8:30 PM Sunday (since 1961) T T T T	The house this restaurant occupies was built in 1954. It became a restaurant in 1961. One of the last authentic places with an old feel. A true roadhouse restaurant. Not California Nouveau Cuisine but good old fashioned American food. If I'm not mistaken, the buffet had "pickled pigs knuckles" as a selection the night I was there. Apparently that's the most popular item in the salad bar. They also sell frogs legs. The first owner was Clark County Sheriff Glen Jones. Stan and Valerie Wojtowicze had been the proprietors since 1972. Sadly, Stanley died on April 28, 2006 at age 72. Not really Rat Pack Vegas, so much as true Americana. UPDATE: According to Mark C. this wonderful place closed on March 31, 2007. Another rare Las Vegas historic restaurants bites the dust!
Huntridge Drug "Restaurant", 112 E. Charleston 384-3737 T T T	Challenging part of town, authentic American Chop Suey, very cheap and historic and quite definitely fun - but not for the weak at heart. Movies have been filmed here (Indecent Proposal) - check out the Huntridge Theater next door - once a Vegas movie palace and now principally a music venue. The bar next door is also a good dive bar if you are more courageous than I. UPDATE: The couple that have run the lunch counter for decades are retiring and the lunch counter has been sold. Let's pray that the new owners appreciate what is there and don't change a thing! Las Vegas is very lucky to still have three drug store lunch counters (are there any in Los Angeles? - I guess the Fair Oaks Pharmacy, but it's not quite the same thing). I'm hearing new owners (possibly related to the old ones) have taken over.
The La Concha (2955 S Las Vegas Blvd) and The Morocco Motels The La Concha lobby above.	The La Concha has slowly disappeared over the last few years. However one of the most interesting parts - the exterior of the lobby in the shape of a shell still remains as a real estate office (sans its great neon sign and historic interior). I guess that's better than nothing (sort of preservation in the Wilshire Brown Derby mode). I guess it's ironic that La Concha is now literally a shell of what it was. There are people working very hard to save it and move it to another location. UPDATE: It has been saved and moved. The nearby Morocco Motel, I believe, is now a souvenir shop and Korean Restaurant. I don't know if there was a connection between the two, but they seem to have a similar shape. Beside these remnants, what remains of the 1950's strip is discussed at the top of the page (very little). There are some 1950's motels north of Sahara, but they remain for the braver at heart to explore.
Modify, 8 E. Charleston Blvd. Suite 8-a (at Main St.), Las Vegas, NV 89104 702-384-6555	If you are looking for mid-century modern antique furniture, this is definitely the place to go. TV's with clickers that really click! Chairs and couches right out of "2001 a Space Odyssey". Just walking in will fill you with nostalgia for the 60s. In a city born and raised on the Modern style, ironically this is one of the very few places in town that carry on that tradition. We all need to support stores like this through our patronage.
Peppermill Inn Restaurant, 2985 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 735-41777 since 1972	1960’s "Love American Style" so tacky it's great – fire and water fountain, lots of neon. This is a mini version of the Peppermill in Reno which also warrants a visit. The Reno Peppermill must be the most colorful place on earth (the light/water show at the Parasol Down at the Wynn gives them some strong competition on mind blowing colors). You will never see so much neon and glowing colors anywhere else in the world. It sort of reminds me of the Felini Movie "Fred and Ginger" in the colorful scene at the end. Sort of Ultra Posh working class elegance. Very unique place and very good food for the price. Unfortunately, the Las Vegas branch took down it's original neon sign and modernized it. Let's hope they leave the rest of this great place alone.
Pogo's Tavern, 2103 N. Decatur Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 702-646-9735 (since 1968)	This bar definitely has a nicely worn old feel, but the real star here is the music on Friday nights when former big band musicians get together to jam. There was a time in the 50s when each major casino had its own big band (including Esquivel in the Stardust and Luis Prima at the Sahara). With the advent of modern music technology, the big casino bands were replaced by this technology, but many of these great musicians stayed on in Las Vegas in other jobs. That's why Vegas has a great local music scene (although it takes a bit of looking around to find it).
Rainbow Bar & Grill, 4480 Paradise Rd 702-898-3525 Open 24 hours.	No you're not on the wrong page! Las Vegas now has a branch of the Los Angeles Rainbow Bar & Grill. They have done an ok job of recreating the old restaurant ambiance in the restaurant section. The original could never be completely replicated - it's one of my favorites in Los Angeles. Maybe this is the answer to the question "Where did you go Joe DiMaggio?" Now if they could only transplant the Musso and Frank Grill ! And of course - Vegas has lost its one time Brown Derby recreation. The bar section is modern in design, similar to the Hard Rock Hotel.
Tiffany's Café, 1700 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Hard to find – in Rexal Drug store 383-0196 T T T T	Cheap, good food, 60’s throwback- still very popular. In a "challenging" part of the strip that has seen better days, but that doesn't stop a loyal clientele. This is one of three great Drug Store lunch counters still surviving in Las Vegas.
Trader Vic’s Bar & Restaurant (inside the Planet Hollywood Casino - former Aladdin Casino), 3663 Las Vegas Blvd. South, Las Vegas, NV 89109 702-405-4700	At last, true Tiki has returned to Las Vegas! I went to the "soft" opening of Trader Vic's on 10-12-07. Trader Vic's these days faces a difficult challenge of appealing to a "normal" upscale crowd looking for an elegant experience and to the Tiki purists who desire a place as close as possible to the old school original Trader Vic's. I think they have arrived at a good compromise. While it may be possible that Tiki purists can keep a place going in Los Angeles (although recent massacres there make that a dubious proposition), the experience of the "Venus Bar" makes it clear that Trader Vic's needs the tourist crowd to survive and flourish in Las Vegas. Thus, this Trader Vic's is sort of an ultra-modern, upscale, understated (by my standards) design that will appeal to a wide range of clientele (don't expect the "transported to a tropical island effect"). But for the Tiki purist there are two massive Tiki sculptures (rivaling the Aku Aku's of Easter Island and Sunset Park!). There are also available the classic Tiki drinks in a variety of Tiki mugs (though not for sale as of yet). I think everyone will be happy. And they must have had me in mind when they did the blue glow backlit bar! My favorite color and design technique. There is a nice range of prices for food ranging from the very upscale to more affordable sandwiches. For cheapo ambiance lovers like me, at a minimum buy a virgin Pina Colada and soak in all in. It also has a great outdoor patio to overlook the intriguing show of tourists below (almost a Parisian experience). I ate at the bar with a very hard working, professional and attractive bartender making the experience even better. You are hereby ordered to patronize this place!!!
Venus Bar, inside the Venetian Resort Hotel	Newsflash: This place is no more. Another great tribute to Vegas's thirst for all things intellectual. We will not let Tiki Culture die in Vegas however. Tiki will return! Las Vegas was once the site of two very authentic Tiki Restaurants - The Aku Aku (at the Stardust) and a branch of Don the Beachcomber (in the Sahara Hotel). All traces of these places are gone with one notable exception. The massive Tiki from the Aku Aku now sits on an island in the middle of the lake at Sunset Park.
Victory Hotel, Main Street, Downtown Las Vegas, NV (since 1910)	Originally the Lincoln Hotel. I include this photo only for it's historic value - one of the oldest Hotels in Las Vegas. Just enjoy the view of the exterior and stay at the Hard Rock!
BOULDER CITY
Boulder City, NV (near the Hoover Dam) Boulder Dam Hotel, 1305 Arizona St., Boulder City, Nevada 89005, built in 1933.	Boulder City, only minutes from Las Vegas, has the feel of a classic American small town from the 40's. One nice touch is that it's the only place in Nevada where gambling is illegal. It's history is completely tied to the building of the Hoover (Boulder) Dam. This is the city that the Federal government built to house the Dam workers (such a wealth of possibilities for puns). The government ran the city up until around 1960. Great place to take a quiet afternoon stroll and eat in an old coffee shop.
The Coffee Cup Cafe, Boulder City, NV	Nice little coffee shop - typical of the coffee shops found everywhere in the U.S. in the 1950's. Good old fashioned milk shakes. Very popular and known for their omelets.
Boulder Theatre (since 1930)	I don't believe they show movies on a regular basis anymore, although it's rented out for special shows. If I recall correctly, the last time I did see a movie there, there was not much left of the original interior, but the outside is very nostalgic.
GOODSPRINGS, NEVADA
The Pioneer Saloon, Goodsprings, Nevada (since 1913) T T T T T See my other website, www.unrealvegas.com for many more pictures.	You sometimes hear people refer to Goodsprings as a ghost town. It isn't. It's just a very small out of the way town near Jean, Nevada. The Pioneer Saloon is a fantastic old western saloon, perfectly preserved (mostly pressed tin), with a back bar fabricated in the 1860s from Brunswick, Maine.. Well worth the short trip off of 15 on the way to Las Vegas. Get directions in any of the casinos in Jean (you may well find an employee who lives there). Basically, it's the only road leading away from the casinos - plenty of signs. This is rumored to be where Clark Gable waited to hear news of Carole Lombard's plane crash nearby.

CASINOS -LAS VEGAS

Frontier Hotel, Las Vegas strip, just past the Fashion Show Mall	This was the second hotel built on the strip. Lot's of Vegas history here. I cannot divine any original elements of the interior however. The sign is the oldest one on the strip. UPDATE: This historic hotel has closed. I'm not sure what will become of the extremely historic sign! Better take pictures while you can.
Golden Gate, Downtown at the Fremont Experience, 385-9601 (phone number when the hotel opened long age was #1)	Only downtown hotel with some historic feel in the interior - $1 shrimp cocktail is best in town, with superb piano players to entertain you most hours (if you are on a budget - a few $1 shrimp cocktails makes for a fun meal, although they are not allowing kids in that area of the Hotel anymore for some reason - probably losing too much money on the shrimp!). The food at the lunch counter is cheap and filling. The coffee shop has an old feel and original booths. Interesting old pictures in the casino. I liked it even more before they remodeled the bar, but it's still the best thing going downtown. Originally the Sal Sagev Hotel (Las Vegas backwards) This is the oldest Hotel in Las Vegas. The phone number here was once simply the number 1.
Skyline Casino, 1741 N. Boulder Highway near Sunset, 565-9116	24 hr best of ultra cheap Vegas food, homemade rolls, great specials. For some reason, I really like the ambiance in this humble restaurant, although it varies depending on where you're seated. Try to sit in a dark area. Working class crowd (and proud of it) and plenty of people smoking in the casino - it may be too much for some non-smokers to tolerate . Expect a wait during peak hours but it's well worth it.
TOURIST TIPS AND TOP TENS
This is expanded and updated on unrealvegas.com Don't gamble - but since you won't listen to me, at least set some reasonable limits. One of the Las Vegas area's best kept "secrets" is Lake Las Vegas, which contains the Loew's and the Ritz Carlton hotels. Beautiful man-made lake and fake European village and it's rarely crowded. Highly recommended if you have a car available. The cafe there in the Montelago Casino has good food and very reasonable prices. It's way out of town near Lake Mead. If you're an adult without kids, I'd say you should either stay at the Hard Rock, the Wynn or one of the hotels at Lake Las Vegas (there are plenty of other places but these are the best) Unless you are rich and can afford some of Vegas's very expensive restaurants, the food is pretty generic out here. There are some exceptions. The best place for breakfast is the Original Pancake House, with various locations in Vegas (and California). The food here is all made from scratch and the highest possible quality. Some of the dishes are so large - you'll burst out laughing! For lunch I recommend the subs at Capriotti's - various locations in town. Coming from the east coast I long believed that you could not get a real sub on the west coast. Capriotti's is not only a great sub, but it would rival any east coast subs (since it was founded in Delaware). For fast Mexican food, those who do not want to brave North Las Vegas should seek out Fausto's (one branch on Stephanie and one on Horizon Ridge in the South East). Fausto's gives you an absurd amount of food for next to nothing. I don't know how they stay in business (and it's really good - with homemade tortillas). For dinner - good luck, few places really excite me (other than those listed above). The Chinatown on Spring Mountain Road has authentic Chinese food, as well as Thai, Korean, Japanese and Malaysian. Check out www.unrealvegas.com for some ethnic food recommendations. You can have a very inexpensive meal just eating the $1 shrimp cocktails at the Golden Gate downtown. Mr. Lucky's at the Hard Rock has a $7.77 steak and shrimp special that you have to specifically request (it's not on the menu). The Hofbrau House is a lot of fun if you get there after 6:00pm and the full German band is playing. It can get a little expensive if you don't watch what you order, but it's generally reasonable. Reserve early, this place gets packed. Other than that, try to eat at one of the original places listed above. If you want a minor splurge, get a drink at the Parasol Down bar in the Wynn casino. It's perhaps the most spot in Las Vegas with a very serene waterfall-like sculpture (hard to describe). While the music they play there is in good taste, I wish they would play classical music, because the present music interferes with the beautiful sound of the waterfall. At night, the waterfall area at the Parasol Down turns into a mind blowing light and media show (you've got to see it!). Say what you like about Steve Wynn, I think the man's a genius and he has a tremendous sense and appreciation of color. The two best deals in Vegas (at least if you are a resident) are the year pass at the Belagio Art Gallery and the admission price to the Wynn Gallery (update - Wynn Gallery is gone - probably the victim of mindless tourists and a dull local population)For a few dollars, you can enjoy these mega million dollar paintings just as much as the owners! Another must see is the Voo Doo Lounge at the Rio Casino. Go there around 5:00PM to see the incredible view at the top of the Casino before the sun goes down and then watch the lights of Las Vegas slowly come on. For the price of a drink (there's no cover at that time of day), it's one of Las Vegas's best deals (and stick around for the dancing later on). For great dancing to true Salsa music (and no smoke!) check out the Havana Grill on Eastern near Green Valley. Some nice commercial signage downtown Las Vegas.	TOP TEN BEST THINGS IN LAS VEGAS IN GENERAL (excluding places mentioned above and parks): 1. The view from the patio of the Loews' Resort in Lake Las Vegas; 2. The water/light show at the Parasol Down Bar at the Wynn Casino and the waterfall next to the Wynn; 3. MonteLago Village in Lake Las Vegas (and Lake Las Vegas in general); 4. The Hard Rock Hotel (especially AJ's Steakhouse and the hotel pool) 5. The Forum Shops in Caesar's Casino and the Canal Shops in the Venetian Casino (for my purposes just to walk and people watch); 6. The fountains of the Bellagio (outside in front) and the Conservatory & Botanical Gardens at the Bellagio Casino (near the lobby), and don't miss the art gallery; 7. Chinatown on Spring Mountain Road; 8. VooDoo Lounge at the Rio early on before they charge a cover; 9. One dollar shrimp cocktails at the Golden Gate Casino downtown; 10. The Hofbrau House in the room where the band plays at night. Obviously, everyone has different tastes and opinions. These are only my highly subjective and biased choices. TOP TEN HOTELS IN VEGAS (purely subjective!) 1. The Wynn, The Hard Rock, and Hyatt Lake Las Vegas - tied - (depending on whether you are with kids - the Hyatt wins, whether you want to be near the strip - the Wynn and Hard Rock win, and whether you are big on peace and quiet - but then why be in Vegas - the Hard Rock is fun but hardly peaceful!); 2. The Bellagio - for its fountains, conservatory/Gardens and art museum; 3. Mandalay Bay - principally for excellent restaurants, dancing and exotic pool; 4. Flamingo - Just based on value. For people on a budget who don't mind what is sometimes quite a wait to check in - the pool gives you a big bang for your buck and it's right in the center of the strip (don't look for elegance here however); 5. Caesar's - mostly for the Forum Shops, decent clubs and restaurants; 6. Venetian - once again for the Canal Shops - which will wow first time visitors and central location. The rooms are not for people on a budget, but luxurious by almost any standards; 7. Paris - I haven't heard raves about the rooms, but it's a fun place to walk around and some good food deals (a baguette and coffee make for a cheap meal for people on a budget). Mon Ami Gabi has a nice ambiance (particularly outside) and heavenly food if you want to splurge; 8. Planet Hollywood - The shopping area was once very nice with exotic background music and wonderful free shows and belly dancers. Much of this has changed and I don't know how it will end up. I did get the nicest hotel room I ever had here when they bumped me up to a suite for lack of space. It was enormous! Of important note is the recent opening of Trader Vic's here. The casino here also has a nice mid-century modern design. 9. New York, New York - kind of fun for the food court and the fake art deco; 10. Excalibur/Circus Circus - I avoid these places but if you insist on bringing kids to Las Vegas (I'm kind of torn on that issue) - these are probably the best places to stay. Lots of arcade games and such. The upside of bringing kids is that if you are good parents and spend the whole time with them, they will probably love the lights, fountains, kid shows and sights. If you are going to gamble - forget it! The downside is the exposure to very questionable pictures and photos strewn all over the side walks and second hand smoke everywhere. Vegas has backed off big time in making the place kid friendly (almost entirely). I've got to say that as a kid, however, I really did enjoy a day in old Vegas at least. 11. Golden Gate - I mention it for the food deals, history and older ambiance - I haven't seen the rooms but I doubt they provide any competition for the strip or even any other hotel on Fremont Street. If you're an off beat Bohemian like me - who knows, you may like them. Probably best to just hang out here and stay somewhere else. NUMBER ONE WORST THING ABOUT LAS VEGAS: Second hand smoke almost anywhere you go!!!! (Check the Las Vegas American Lung Association site for non-smoking restaurants and coupons). Las Vegas should pass a law limiting each resident to only one addiction! UPDATE: Vegas now has a no-smoking law but there are lot's of exceptions - including an exclusion for most casinos. Still, it looks like it may make the town more livable eventually. It's still hard to escape the smoke, however. The El Cortez at Night - the oldest, best preserved exterior of any casino in Las Vegas.