Bars & Restaurants of 40's 50's & 60's

Imperial County, California (a time machine county!)

This little known desert county, next to San Diego County, is mostly frozen in the 1930's and 1940's (in a good way - loaded with history). It's straight out of the "Grapes of Wrath". A largely farming area - this county soaks up a lion's share of the Colorado River. Each small city in this county has at least one time machine restaurant (although I can't remember the names of the one's in Westmoreland and Brawley). In El Centro, you have to visit the Owl Cafe, 674 W Main St , El Centro, CA 92243-2920 - (760) 352-4803. This well preserved bar and grill dates from the twenties. It has two long counters on each side - one for eating and one for drinking. El Centro (at least as of nine years ago) has two well preserved mini-movie palaces from the 30's or 40's. Every city in Imperial County has covered sidewalks downtown with pressed tin ceilings to protect shoppers from the normal 115 degree summer days (I had a plastic TV literally melt in the back of my car once). The greatest adventure in Imperial County may be trying to find the next two classic restaurants because they are truly out in the middle of nowhere. You may have to go with a local to find them. One is the Mount Signal Cafe (1958), 1201 West Highway 98, Calexico, 760-357-1379. This historic and unique place was started by a woman who was a bullfighting aficionado (perhaps even a bullfighter? Someone write me if they know about this place) and bullfighting memorabilia adorns every wall. Fantastic site to film an Indie movie. Sure hope that wonderful lady is still there. The other out in the middle of nowhere place is Camacho's Place, 796 West Wahl Road El Centro, CA 92243-9513. You'd be surprised how many people, even in El Centro, are unaware of this place. If you reach any of these restaurants, you will be in Mexican-Americana Nirvana. These are the type of places where small town Southwest Americans (Hispanic and Anglo alike) used to eat and chew the fat and these places are completely unchanged by the franchise chain restaurant craze of the 2000's. Both of these places sell a special quesadilla that puffs up like a balloon. I've never seen this anywhere else. Two other places to see on your tour of Imperial County are Barbara Worth Country Club, 2050 Country Club Drive, Holtville, CA 92250, and the De Anza Hotel (1931) 233 E. 4th St. Calexico, CA - (760) 357-1112 . Barbara Worth is a bit remodeled but has excellent food. The De Anza is a great piece of history. I had the good fortune of meeting the famous Mexican singer, song writer, and entertainer Juan Gabriel in the restaurant there. You occasionally hear big city folk in San Diego talking down El Centro, but you would be hard pressed to find nicer people than those in Imperial County anywhere else in the world! I'm hearing some of these places were damaged in the recent earthquake. Better call before visiting.

TIJUANA, MEXICO

I haven't been to Mexico in fifteen years or more, so I can't tell you what it's like now (especially regarding safety - I'm told tourism is down 90% due to drug violence and shoot outs - so I'm not recommending a visit to Tijuana at all!). But there are a number of spots I used to like very much when I would go there often in the good old days. The Caesar's Hotel in Tijuana (and by the way it's pronounced "Ti hwana" - not "Tia Wana" - hey - everyone has to be a snob about something!) dates from the prohibition time when Americans used to go to Tijuana principally to imbibe. For Food Historians - this is where the Caesar's Salad was invented - something I would always order. Caesar's used to have a wonderful restaurant and bar - dark and woody, with ancient waiters, that was once a hangout for bullfighters and American movie stars. I really loved that place. The place suddenly closed with a sign saying the employees were on strike. It was still closed last time I checked over 12 years ago (let me know if it ever reopened). Another great place is Cafe La Especial, Avenida Revolución #718 Tijuana, 685-6654. You have to walk down a flight of stairs toward a curio market to find this place. Once there you will find a classic Mexican restaurant, full of kitsch paintings and decorations, that dates from the 60's. With career waiters and great food that at least in the past was very cheap, this was my favorite place in Tijuana. Another good place, although not old, also on Avenida Revolucion, is Sanborns, which used to attract what appeared to be an affluent crowd of locals. Finally, there is Chiki Jai, Avenida Revolución #1388, Zona Centro, Tijuana, 685-4955. This Basque restaurant from the fifties has great old pictures painted on the walls and wonderful blue cheese and bread appetizers. As I said, I haven't been to Tijuana or Mexicali for a very long time. I do not think it is safe anymore. I'll leave it to you to check out. In these times, I never leave the protection of good old fashion American Due Process! Plenty of good food in San Ysidro and Calexico.

The historic "long bar" - about a block long in the white building in the middle is long gone. The white building on the right was still there (originally a bank - then a curio shop) the last time I was in TJ many years ago.

Incredible Menu from Patio Agua Caliente in Tijuana, Mexico - probably in the Agua Caliente resort - with caricatures by Xavier Cugat. From the collection of Jessica W.

BAKER, CALIFORNIA - San Bernardino County
Bun Boy Restaurant, est. 1926 (760) 733-4660	Baker California seems to exist principally as a convenient place for people to stop going to and from Las Vegas. The Bun Boy Restaurant was founded in the 20s and is completely remodeled, but I like its Googie sign. Things seem to be changing at Bun Boy recently. New owner? UPDATE: This branch in Baker is adios. It's now a Bob's Big Boy (at least the "boy" remains!?!?). I believe there is a Bun Boy on Rt. 66 in Barstow that has good food and may have been related to the Baker one at some point in time. At least Bob's has some history to it.
Arne's Royal Hawaiian Motel, 200 W. Baker Blvd Baker, California 92309 The world's loneliest Tiki.	A rare Tiki find in the middle of nowhere. There's a tiki in front of the lobby of this well preserved classic motel. That might be the extent of the Tiki nature of this place however. Not to be confused with the Royal Hawaiian in Laguna Beach.
Victorville/Hesperia/Phelan/Yermo, California
Emma Jean's Holland Burger Cafe, 17143 N. D St. Victorville, CA 92393 (760) 243 9938 T T T T	Great Rt. 66 find right off the 15 on the edge of Victorville. I'd pass it when I would take Rt. 66 from Barstow to Victorville, not realizing it was just off the 15. This is the oldest restaurant in Victorville, run by a family that is proud of the gem they have, keeping its history alive. Good old fashioned American comfort food made with care. Run by a husband and wife team. Super friendly place. Beats the heck out of any chain restaurant most Vegas tourists stop at in Victorville. Holland Burger was the original name, but the new owner's have been there for decades. Not far from two other great places - the Summit Inn and the Outpost Cafe.
The Summit Inn - along Rt. 66 near Phelan, California (right before the Cajon Pass going South) T T T T	Just outside of Victorville - this is a great old Rt. 66 coffee shop from the 50's - they serve Ostrich egg omelets. Very friendly staff and lots of great memories. Interesting, down home locals. There is some Elvis history here - he is rumored to have eaten here. Coin napkin holders that tell your fortune (like in the William Shatner Twilight Zone story - but I'm not sure they are operational). Not far from the Outpost Cafe. Highly recommended.
The Outpost Cafe, 8685 Highway 395, Hesperia, CA	Another nice Rt. 66 holdout near Victorville that serves classic Americana comfort food. I like when they make (as they do here) cheese omelets with big slices of American Cheese on top of the omelet. If you're driving from Vegas to Los Angeles, you can eat here, the Summit Inn, Peggy Sue's, Idle Spurs Steak House, the Palm Cafe, the Village Cafe, or Emma Jean's Holland Burger Cafe for an historic lunch or dinner, or wait until you get to Vince's Spaghetti or the Iron Skillet in Ontario.
Peggy Sue's, 35654 E Yermo Rd., Yermo, CA 92398 (760) 254-3370 and Peggy Sue's 50's Diner, 16885 Frontage Rd. Victorville, CA 951-5001 The Yermo diner (below) dates from 1954 The Victorville location is found below:	Two fun stop offs midway between Vegas and Los Angeles owned by people who obviously love 50's history. The Yermo location is one of the very few (only?) real diners in Southern California, although I'm not sure what the official definition of a diner is or whether this was constructed from a train car (perhaps that means the Formosa Cafe and Pacific Dining Car qualify as diners?). The menu speaks of the place being built out of train tracks! Friendly place where there are some remnants of the original Western culture in the locals here. Yermo is just outside Barstow (it's my favorite of the two). Both places have lots of memorabilia - one of the owners was associated with the Hollywood film industry apparently. Good American comfort food. UPDATE: A waitress at Peggy Sue's in Yermo who is familiar with the history of the place tells me that the restaurant was constructed on site out of railroad ties. So it was not previously a railroad car. Don't know if that qualifies it as an official diner or not. UPDATE II: Peggy Sue's in Victorville has become a Mexican Restaurant with a new owner and name.
BARSTOW, CALIFORNIA
Harvey House (Casa del Desierto), 2780 Lenwood Road, Barstow, CA 92311-9591	Once a restaurant/train stop in part of the great Harvey House chain created by Fred Harvey. The interior is gone except for a few minor details, but the outside structure is in great shape. Train travel must have been a real experience in those days! This is definitely a real piece of railroad history, easily missed by people speeding down Rt. 15. Follow the signs in downtown Barstow/Rt. 66 to find this place. There is also a Rt. 66 history museum and a train museum here. So many people speed past Barstow or stop in a fast food joint, but there's really much of historic interest here - so slow down and check it out! See the plaque picture for more info.
Idle Spurs Steak House, 690 US Highway 58, Barstow, CA 92311 (760) 256-8888	The Ranch House that holds this place dates from the 50's, so I guess I'm not breaking my 1970 cut off rule. They tell me there's a sign on Rt. 15, but I must have driven by it 100 times without noticing. It was only on the suggestion of a patron at Emma Jean's Holland Burger that I found this place. It has a great local, Western feel. Must be a major hang for Barstow residents. Wonderful service and excellent food at good prices. A fun place indeed. Definitely a good stop going to or coming from Las Vegas. Not far from the Palm Cafe, the Village Cafe, and about a half an hour from Emma Jean's Holland Burger, the Summit Inn and the Outpost Cafe for a great tour of history.
Palm Cafe, Rt. 66 near Downtown Barstow.	This nondescript Chinese restaurant is kind of fun. While it has sort of an old feel, it's full of odds and ends for sale like Indian dolls and jewelry. What I love about it is going there Sunday morning for breakfast. The counter tends to fill up with old timer's from Barstow in Cowboy hats. These are obviously people of the original Western American culture that is so rapidly disappearing. Las Vegas used to be full of true Western Americans (Hispanic, Anglo and Native Americans who grew up in the area before it became the commercial enterprise it is today). Now you'd be very hard pressed to find these people without a lot of inside knowledge or random luck. The true Western accent of this area is also almost completely gone. I guess it's sad but inevitable given the advent of TV and the migration trends that so many subcultures of America are disappearing.
The Village Cafe (Chop Suey), 205 E Main St (Rt. 66), Barstow, CA 760-256-5152	Talk about a hole in the wall, you could pass this place 100 times and never notice it. But it's a great slice of old Americana (or more accurately Chinese-Americana). It was once not only a cafe but on of those ancient 1930's hotels that has a very narrow hall way, rooms only big enough for a bed and a small bathroom down the hall. The hotel rooms are still there (and would make a great movie set!). The restaurant is a classic ultra cheap Chinese/American affair and the characters that come in here are classic small towners. Very friendly, cheap and large quantities of very non-gourmet but tasty food at rock bottom prices. A good stop on a Rt. 66 road trip. The current owner, Henry Wong, has been running the place since 1974, but it's a lot older than that. It's a shame that more big town places are not this friendly.
TEMECULA AND RAINBOW, California
Swing Inn Cafe, 28676 Front St., Temecula (established 1927)	This is a classic local spot for good old comfort food and some traces of the original Western culture in Temecula. Famous for its 99 cent biscuits and gravy. I lived in Temecula for about six years when it was still a fairly small town. Great place to raise a family. It has grown explosively in recent years. Old Town Temecula is an important stop off when visiting the Wineries here as well. Funny fake graveyard on the side.
Rainbow Oaks Restaurant, Rainbow Oaks Blvd. Rainbow, CA	It's easy to pass Rainbow, California by. It's a small town just south of Temecula. Take the Rainbow exit off of 15 and go South and you'll find it. A simple cafe with good milkshakes. This place seems to be turning into a "Tom's Farm type" stop. This used to be old US 395. Take a deep breath and slowly let it out, and go back in history when life was not a constant rush and strangers and locals could strike up a casual conversation at the counter.
Rt. 66 between Barstow and Needles
Bagdad Cafe, 46548 National Trails Hwy (Rt. 66), Newberry Springs, CA 760-257-3101 T T T T	Rt. 66 between Barstow and Needles is long, desolate and in really bad shape (hard on the shock absorbers - I would not recommend riding on this section of Rt. 66 in anything except a seasoned Ford F-150 Work Series with new shocks and springs - it could be used as a pot-hole museum, but Hwy 40 parallels most of it), but this restaurant makes the trip worth it. Wonderful old hole in the wall where the cult film Bagdad Cafe was filmed. Owned by Andrea Pruett, who could not be nicer, it's a real slice of history. The milkshakes here brought back precise memories of the real drug store milkshakes of Maryland when I was a kid (you've got to have those Hamilton Beach machines to make them!). Stop on by. And the best thing - no insurgents!
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS
Schilo's Delicatessen, 424 E. Commerce St., San Antonio, TX 78205 210-223-6692	I really enjoyed this place. Much of the interior is still original. The great thing here is the homemade root beer, which is constantly refilled and the "homemade" pea soup. San Antonio must have one of the best preservation movements in the U.S. There are tons of well preserved classic buildings and movie palaces. I really wanted to move here, but the job did not come through.

SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
Merchant's Cafe,109 Yesler Way, Seattle, WA 98104 206-624-1515	This is a wonderful time machine, perfectly preserved. It doesn't get much better than this and thank heavens the owner realizes what a treasure he has. The food is excellent and very reasonably priced. Located in the historic Pioneer Square area in Seattle, which has a number of well preserved bars. This is a must see in Seattle! It's got to be the best time machine in the city. This is true living history.
Athenian Inn, 1517 Pike Place Market, Seattle, WA 98101, (206) 624-7166	Nice old place with plenty of old wooden booths, an old counter and good food. Great views as well. Filmed in "Sleepless in Seattle".